HAIR STRENGTHENERS - Proteins

We need a balance of moisture and protein for strong, flexible hair. Water hydrates the hair, promoting suppleness and  elasticity. Protein provides strength and structure.  Water and protein work together synergistically to give hair tensile strength. Proteins are humectants. They attract water and are film formers and emollients that soften hair.

A wide variety of proteins play different roles and serve different functions. Proteins with higher molecular weight  bind to the surface of hair, filling gaps left by broken cuticles and help to rebuild weakened areas temporarily.  These proteins form a film on the outside of your hair, making it look lustrous and silky.

lower molecular weight hydrolysed protein (2)  can penetrate the hair and form cross linkages to strengthen the cortex of the hair (1). The reinforced hair shaft is able to withstand mechanical stress and breakages better.

Traditionally people use eggs, powdered pulses and powders beans for protein treatment.  Now, modern technology hydrolyzed the protein to improve solubility in water. Hydrolyzed protein is protein that has been ‘chopped’ into smaller pieces through a chemical process or enzymatic action.

you only need to use a small amount of hydrolyzed protein in your conditioner – between 2 to 5 percent only. Since protein is water soluble, you can add them to water-based conditioners. According to Susan Barclay-Nichols, “In surfactant blends, they will increase foam stability, add slipperiness, and offer creaminess and density.”

Among the hydrolyzed protein you can choose from are silk, wheat, oat, corn, soy etc.

Some manufacturers use hydrolyzed human hair protein in their products, claiming it  not only penetrate hair  and skin better but also contain all the needed amino acids.

Besides water and protein, there are other substances that help to strengthen hair weakened by chemical treatment, mechanical stress from over styling, high heat   or pollutants. The natural alternatives are ceramides, horsetail, henna, Cassia etc.

There are specially formulated man-made positively charged Cationic polymers and silicones tailored-made as artificial hair strengtheners, thermal protectors, glossers  and hair reconstructors. (More about them in another article.)

(1) Journal of Cosmetic Science, 1993

(2) Hydrolyzed protein - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia