Cassia is a plant with a yellow
dye that strengthens the hair shaft, adds richness, texture
and luster to light color hair. The yellow color comes from its active
component, chrysophanic acid, also called chrysophanol. This compound has antimicrobial
and anti-inflammatory properties.
Rhubarb root has higher
concentration of chrysophanol. Consequently, when manufacturers sold their
product as ‘blond henna’ to dye hair yellow, they may include rhubarb in their
formulation. Cassia does not dye dark hair yellow. Blond henna (cassia) is a
totally different plant from henna.
When you buy cassia, the plant
may go by different names. This is due to its ‘complex taxonomy’. Put simply,
the scientists who classified the hundreds of species within this plant family
were confused or did not agree on their lineage. Therefore, the plant that is most often used
as a hair dye and hair conditioner is often called ‘Cassia obovata’, but may
also be called Senna italica ssp. Its common names are cassia, senna, neutral
henna or blond henna.
The resin in cassia is
positively charged (with cationic molecules) which are attracted preferentially
to areas of damage along your hair strands and fill in gaps left by broken
cuticles. It also envelops your hair in a protective sheath that glues down
hair cuticles. This makes your hair feel soft, smooth and silky, reduces
friction during wet and dry combing and acts as an anti-static agent to reduce
frizz.
The germicidal, fungicidal and
anti-inflammatory properties keep scalp healthy and eliminate dandruff.
OTHER
CASSIA SPECIES USED IN HAIRCARE
Some manufacturers may use
Cassia alata (Senna alata) another plant with the yellow chrysophanic acid.
This plant is a very effective fungicide. Hence its popular name, Ringworm
Bush, due to its effectiveness in treating ringworm infection. Some people add
turmeric to cassia since the herb also has germicidal and anti-fungal
properties as well as contain a yellow dye that stains hair yellow.
The company, Lubrizol Advanced
Materials Inc., patented a product based on carbohydrates derived from Cassia
gum extracted from the endosperm of the seed of Cassia tora and Cassia
obtusifolia.
Lubrizol chemically modify
mannose and galactose sugars extracted from cassia gum and described its
product as ‘quaternised cassia gum polymers’. The ‘chemically enhanced’
cationic properties of cassia polymers were “used as a deposition polymer to
deposit silicone and/or other conditioning agents to improve the performance of
a shampoo.” The silicones help to improve the conditioning properties of
two-in-one shampoo.
Research by another company testing
‘quaternized cassia galactomannan polymers’ in hair conditioner found that the
cassia formula increased silicone deposition by 16 percent, demonstrating that
the chemically modified ingredient enhances the efficacy of the synthetic
ingredients. The cassia also decreased the thickness of the conditioner, making
it easier to spread through the hair.
In oriental traditional
medicine, * Cassia obtusifolia/ Cassia tora are taken for eyes, lungs, kidney,
liver and bowels ailments. Since the last three organs mentioned are for
detoxification and waste elimination, their proper functioning affects the skin
and hair. These leguminous plants are germicidal fungicides as well. Since
legumes are rich in protein, you do not need to add any protein to a cassia
treatment. The seeds come in powdered
form.
Although Cassia obovata is used
as a hair treatment with effects similar to henna, it does not thicken hair significantly
like henna. If you wish to thicken your hair as well, include a little Cassia
obtusifolia/ Cassia tora as thickener. The latter are used as gel and thickener
in food.
Next week I shall post some
hair recipes that use cassia.
*some
scientists think Cassia obtusifolia and Cassia tora should be classified as one
plant.
