CASSIA AS HAIR STRENGTHENER & CONDITIONER

Cassia is a plant with a yellow dye that   strengthens the hair shaft, adds richness, texture and luster to light color hair. The yellow color comes from its active component, chrysophanic acid, also called chrysophanol. This compound has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties.

Rhubarb root has higher concentration of chrysophanol. Consequently, when manufacturers sold their product as ‘blond henna’ to dye hair yellow, they may include rhubarb in their formulation. Cassia does not dye dark hair yellow. Blond henna (cassia) is a totally different plant from henna.

When you buy cassia, the plant may go by different names. This is due to its ‘complex taxonomy’. Put simply, the scientists who classified the hundreds of species within this plant family were confused or did not agree on their lineage.  Therefore, the plant that is most often used as a hair dye and hair conditioner is often called ‘Cassia obovata’, but may also be called Senna italica ssp. Its common names are cassia, senna, neutral henna or blond henna.

The resin in cassia is positively charged (with cationic molecules) which are attracted preferentially to areas of damage along your hair strands and fill in gaps left by broken cuticles. It also envelops your hair in a protective sheath that glues down hair cuticles. This makes your hair feel soft, smooth and silky, reduces friction during wet and dry combing and acts as an anti-static agent to reduce frizz. 

The germicidal, fungicidal and anti-inflammatory properties keep scalp healthy and eliminate dandruff.

OTHER CASSIA SPECIES USED IN HAIRCARE

Some manufacturers may use Cassia alata (Senna alata) another plant with the yellow chrysophanic acid. This plant is a very effective fungicide. Hence its popular name, Ringworm Bush, due to its effectiveness in treating ringworm infection. Some people add turmeric to cassia since the herb also has germicidal and anti-fungal properties as well as contain a yellow dye that stains hair yellow.

The company, Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc., patented a product based on carbohydrates derived from Cassia gum extracted from the endosperm of the seed of Cassia tora and Cassia obtusifolia.

Lubrizol chemically modify mannose and galactose sugars extracted from cassia gum and described its product as ‘quaternised cassia gum polymers’. The ‘chemically enhanced’ cationic properties of cassia polymers were “used as a deposition polymer to deposit silicone and/or other conditioning agents to improve the performance of a shampoo.” The silicones help to improve the conditioning properties of two-in-one shampoo.

Research by another company testing ‘quaternized cassia galactomannan polymers’ in hair conditioner found that the cassia formula increased silicone deposition by 16 percent, demonstrating that the chemically modified ingredient enhances the efficacy of the synthetic ingredients. The cassia also decreased the thickness of the conditioner, making it easier to spread through the hair.

In oriental traditional medicine, * Cassia obtusifolia/ Cassia tora are taken for eyes, lungs, kidney, liver and bowels ailments. Since the last three organs mentioned are for detoxification and waste elimination, their proper functioning affects the skin and hair. These leguminous plants are germicidal fungicides as well. Since legumes are rich in protein, you do not need to add any protein to a cassia treatment.  The seeds come in powdered form.

Although Cassia obovata is used as a hair treatment with effects similar to henna, it does not thicken hair significantly like henna. If you wish to thicken your hair as well, include a little Cassia obtusifolia/ Cassia tora as thickener. The latter are used as gel and thickener in food.

Next week I shall post some hair recipes that use cassia.

*some scientists think Cassia obtusifolia and Cassia tora should be classified as one plant.